In the 1st century Hoi An had the largest harbour in Southeast Asia. From the 7th to the 10th century it was the centre of the asian spice trade and brought enormous wealth and power to the Cham people who controlled it.
In the 15th & 16th Centuries, Portuguese, Dutch, Indian & Chinese traders made Hoi An a strategic port on the Asian-European trade route. Some English traders also used the port.
At the start of the 18th century Hoi An rapidly declined as an entrapot due to nationalist sentiment which brought about the fall of the controlling Nguyen dynasties. (Often called the ‘Tay Son’ uprising which was lead by three brothers who claimed socialist ideals but who turned Cromwellian after gaining power).
The Tay Son dynasty only lasted for 24 years but it was long enough to destroy Hoi An as a port.
American traders also made attempts at trade around this time but were unsuccessful as the internal conflict had led to general instability and thus a lack of trading goods.
In 1802 a survivor of the Nguyen dynasty re took control of dispirit parts of Indio-China and with French help formed what is now modern Vietnam.
It is said that in return for restoring the Nguyen dynasty France was given control of Dar-Nang (The official view is France was complicit in murdering the three brothers and then took over the country).
Whatever the facts in 1835 the Nguyan emperor decreed that foreign shipping was to be confined to using the port of Dar-Nang, this effectively put Hoi An into moth-balls as an entrapot, overnight.
Most tourist literature blames river silting for the ports decline but this seems unlikely for an established thriving port.
This unadorned official building illustrates how the 19th Cent French colonial buildings at the East end of the town have been modified with local materials and decoration to look almost indigenous.
Adjacent stands a traditional temple building but this has strong Japanese influences
Most streets contain small shade trees which make for pleasant walking.
The Japanese bridge is one of the most picturesque and photographed features of the town.
The bridge owes its origins and design to the Japanese traders who used the town as an entrepot in the 16th & 17th Cent & resided in what is now known as the ‘Old Town’.
In Japan it was traditional construction policy to build from wood and renew single elements as decay made necessary.
Thus the bridge has retained its original design & form long after its original materials have perished.
The entry to a small Buddhist temple can be glimpsed on the right.
While bridge chapels are common in the UK this is said to be unique in Vietnam.
The bridge gives entry to the Old Town and zealous officials extract a toll for crossing the bridge.
To avoid the toll a small foot bridge behind the camera crosses over the canal adjacent to the river (not shown on map). Some of the old port features are clearly visible including the wharf walls & the old warehouse building on the left.
It looks like in the past this little canal led into a turning basin, but it is now blocked and overgrown with weeds or it could be just a drain?
Beyond the Japanese bridge lies the ‘Old Town’ proper, this seems to be a controlled zone and contains most of the more ancient Japanese buildings as well as elements of Chan and Vietnamese, culture.
The main street mainly sells tourist stuff.
It must be remembered that despite prolific evidence of capitalist endeavour, Vietnam is still a communist country and this street appears totally regimented and almost sterile.
Unfortunately the end result is that despite the street being of great heritage significance it is probably the least appealing area of the town.
Obtaining accurate historical information through out Vietnam is very difficult due to both political interpretation and language difficulties .
Note the profusion of lanterns which go some way to brightening the street.
They can be purchased throughout the town & many hotels run classes where tourists can make their own.
A silk factory also exists just off the main street.
This is well worth a visit as it contains elements of the full production process from pupa to the production of silk fabrics, clothing, and pictures, all of which are for sale.
Meanwhile back on the River, the banks are lined with commercial activity most of the building are two story and have a striking resemblance to the ‘Shop Houses’ of Singapore and many probably still perform a similar function.
Retail at ground level, residency on first floor.
In addition to tourism some locals still earn a living from fishing, nets like this and the boats that service them are common on the open river but in the centre of a town less so.
The larger boats go out into the open delta for their catch.
Just below the canal entrance this lift bridge provides pedestrian, & bike access to the main island.
The bridge is a curious structure, it is of reinforced concrete and obviously new, but it has a traditional timber deck lifting section.
Closer inspection, reveals that the rails to the lifting decks have been designed to hinge and close off the roadway before the decks lift.
It’s unfortunate that the lifting spans are now fixed as it makes it very difficult for the small covered boats to pass under it.
The over beams are illuminated at night. (Check out the night blog)
It can be seen from the map that the lift bridge gives access to a wide street which runs to the other side of the island. The streets running down to the tip of the wedge start wide and gradually get narrower & narrower, they are great fun for riding down.
No matter how narrow they seem it is impossible to get lost as the area is so small.
Recommended
Having walked from the hotel up to & around the old town we decided to take a $2 boat back down river to the hotel.
All towns look totally different from the water & Hoi An is no different.
So a small boat back to the hotel is recommended just for fun.